Modular Wall Wiring

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Modular Wall Wiring

Postby bith » May 24 2012 03:28:56 pm

i've been tasked with working out a solution for one of the facilities in my lab. it's a mixed reality training environment where live people can experience a two way interaction with virtual people (i.e. you're shooting at a guy on a screen. he shoots back but you can duck behind a physical wall and not get hit). the physical walls are standalone set pieces built pretty much the same way standard wood framing is done. top-down, all the wall are L or U shaped and can be fit together in various way to create different scenarios and rooms. part of this effort involves tracking these wall segments so they can be accurately represented virtually. part of this tracking requires powering devices on top of the walls. right now, they are just testing the system using extension cords and power strips. very annoying to change when the walls change and not a very good permanent solution.

ideally, i'd like to install a permanent wiring solution that allows for a few walls to be daisy chained together using standard connectors between them and eliminating the chance of live plugs just dangling in the breeze.

picture below is just a first pass at explaining the concept and a possible (as in possibly shitty) solution.


veldt wiring.001.jpg
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wiring the outlet boxes with three wire conductor and conduit is not the challenge. i'm mostly concerned with getting the power from the exterior walls of the room to the first wall segment. what kind of conductor can safely "extend" existing wiring? same question for linking a few wall segments together. thoughts? should they just instal ceiling drops in the room?
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Postby caddymac » May 24 2012 06:03:25 pm

Using Romex and standard plugs won't be code, but probably nothing you can do will be considered code.

To get from an existing receptacle to the first wall, your best bet is probably an outdoor extension cord, at least 14AWG but 12AWG would be better.
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Re: Modular Wall Wiring

Postby Wilbur » May 25 2012 09:28:36 am

Without the ceiling drops folks in the simulation are just going to kick / trip over cables and unplug your whole chain.

As far as power to the segments as caddymac said you cannot use appliance plugs on type NM cable. You may be able to get away with using something like this for the mains connection. Just the indoor, not rain-proof version but the plug type is the same. I'd be surprised if it met commercial code, but it would be safer.

This is at ISU yes? Physical plant ought to be able to set it up similar to the various conference facilities. Side benefit that the union guys don't murder you in your sleep for "doing their jobs."
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Postby bith » May 27 2012 10:36:50 am

All the outlets and connections will be done on top of these walls. Shouldn't be a lot of cables running around for people to trip on. I'll look into these types of connections and see what the bosses say about how legit this needs to be.
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Postby NObama » May 28 2012 08:11:26 pm

Find something that they use to connect office cubicles to. Cubicles are meant to be modular and typically need to be moved and removed many times. Here is the type of connector: http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Haworth-Power ... 0603108708
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Postby THW » Jun 02 2012 12:46:18 am

I don't believe you are technically even supposed to have more than 5 outlets on a 20 amp circuit.
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Re:

Postby caddymac » Jun 02 2012 08:04:01 am

THW wrote:I don't believe you are technically even supposed to have more than 5 outlets on a 20 amp circuit.

Maybe in Canada, hoser!

NEC has no max requirements on receptacles on a residential circuit.
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Postby THW » Jun 03 2012 09:04:02 pm

I'm pretty sure in order to be in code my dad couldn't put more than 5 outlets on a circuit when he built a rather large addition on our house. What's that about?
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Postby caddymac » Jun 03 2012 09:26:02 pm

Local code requirements?

Or an inspector that doesn't know what he or she is talking aboot.
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Postby daoist » Jun 20 2012 09:07:22 am

An outdoor extension cord would be your best bet for that first run. Lowest gauge (thickest) you can find, and no longer than needed. I'd wire the whole thing with one grade lower than required for the circuit and use all GFCIs just for paranoia.
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Postby Wilbur » Jun 20 2012 10:14:31 am

Using 10/2 where 12/2 would be specified is going to be very expensive and will do zilch to protect people. Ditto for daisy chains of GFCIs. If you wire the circuit correctly a GFCI protects the outlets that follow it. And they tend to behave erratically if you try to chain them anyway.
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Postby daoist » Jul 22 2012 01:39:58 pm

Not that I'm an expert, but how does a GFCI protect outlets wired in parallel with it?
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Postby caddymac » Jul 23 2012 06:46:55 am

All receptacles are in parallel, otherwise you would have to constantly keep things plugged in if they were wired in series.

If any receptacles wired downstream of the GFCI are connected on the load side of the GFCI, all receptacles after the GFCI are protected. If all receptacles are wired on the line side of the GFCI, only the GFCI will be protected.
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Postby floor punching mummy » Jul 23 2012 01:26:01 pm

you think the songs all sound the same? of course they sound the same, because they all sound BRUTAL!!!

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Re:

Postby daoist » Jul 23 2012 04:09:53 pm

caddymac wrote:All receptacles are in parallel, otherwise you would have to constantly keep things plugged in if they were wired in series.
Yeah, that was basically my point.

If any receptacles wired downstream of the GFCI are connected on the load side of the GFCI, all receptacles after the GFCI are protected. If all receptacles are wired on the line side of the GFCI, only the GFCI will be protected.

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Re:

Postby daoist » Jul 23 2012 04:12:16 pm

floor punching mummy wrote:http://electrical.about.com/od/receptaclesandoutlets/a/Line-Or-Load-A-Gfci-Connection-Choice.htm

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Postby bith » Jul 23 2012 04:14:25 pm

FYI, i gave the higher ups the low down on what this undertaking might require in terms of wiring extra service/circuits, never heard back.
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Postby caddymac » Jul 23 2012 07:00:30 pm

They'll let the next sucker take care of it.

I mean highly valued employee.
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